Health authorities in Europe have prohibited a crucial ingredient found in numerous gel nail polish brands due to concerns about its potential toxicity to humans. The banned substance, trimethylbenzoyl diphenylphosphine oxide (TPO), is commonly used as a photoinitiator in the industry to accelerate drying time and facilitate the hardening of nail polish under ultraviolet light.
The European Union has enforced the ban on TPO in all cosmetic products starting September 1, citing research that indicates a connection between TPO and long-term fertility issues. While the ban currently applies within the EU and similar regulatory frameworks like Norway, it is anticipated to extend to the UK and potentially the US by the end of 2026.
Salons across the EU member states are instructed to discontinue the use of TPO-based nail gels and safely dispose of existing stock. Manufacturers must reformulate their products to exclude TPO. Although the US has not yet implemented a ban, there could be implications for the American beauty industry if products are sourced from Europe.
Regarding the regulatory process, Francesca Rapolla, a senior affairs manager at the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Perfumery Association, highlighted the industry’s inability to justify the continued use of TPO in nail products, emphasizing the absence of viable alternative ingredients.
However, some experts have expressed reservations about the ban, suggesting it lacks robust scientific backing and could impose unnecessary economic challenges. Doug Schoon, a scientific consultant, cautioned against the ban’s potential adverse effects on the industry and urged for a reassessment of the decision.
As the UK is no longer under EU jurisdiction, the government will need to evaluate the long-term effects of TPO and determine whether a ban is warranted. The potential prohibition is expected to impact many nail salons, necessitating the disposal of current TPO-containing products and stocking alternatives.
The rising concerns over cosmetic products’ impact on health, particularly women’s health and fertility, have prompted discussions about the role of endocrine-disrupting chemicals in various health conditions. Studies have linked these chemicals to conditions such as endometriosis and reproductive disorders, indicating a need for heightened scrutiny and regulation in the industry.
In light of these developments, consumers are advised to seek gel polish brands that do not contain TPO, such as ProNails, Manucurist, Halo, Opi, and Apres.